This is The Grand Event of Thailand to celebrate His Majesties.
The Royal Barge Procession Full Dress Rehearsals
On the Chao Phraya River
October 26 and 29, 2007
Over three centuries have since passed, yet this breathtaking spectacle remains awe inspiring, not only in its majestic beauty but also the grace with which the fleet of 52 barges solemnly glides down the Chao Phraya River — the ‘River of Kings’.
When the gilded paddles of the principal barge, the swan-prowed Sri Suphannahongse, are raised in unison, it is as though a mythical bird is about to lift from the water.
The other 51 barges, arrayed across the river in what is traditionally termed a battle formation, create a panorama of rare regal splendour. The blare of conches and trumpets, the songs of the coxswains, and the stentorian chants of the paddlers provide the right cadence for the oar strokes, enhance the spectacle, and mesmerize spectators into respectful silence – much as these same rare sounds have done for hundreds of years.
The Royal Barge Procession is the ultimate reflection of the Thai fascination with water, the central element in Thailand’s rites of passage, festivals, and religion. An aerial view of Thailand’s northern and central plains reveals why. A vast silvery labyrinth of natural and hand-dug waterways slices through the lowland plains. Villages hug banks of rivers and canals and draw from them the life-sustaining water that nourishes lush crops and harbours fish, the two staples of the Thai diet. It is along these liquid highways that a variety of water processions have travelled over the centuries.
THE ROYAL BARGES: A BRIEF HISTORY
One of the largest recorded Royal Barge Processions in Thai history is said to have been in Ayutthaya when King Narai led a procession of 147 barges along the Chao Phya River. The barges were then more than just decorative or ceremonial, they were the King's navy. The greater the number of barges in the fleet, the more visible proof of the King's power. Boat races were both a source of entertainment and a means of keeping boat crews in top physical readiness. The annual barge procession in those days also compelled officials to maintain a large flotilla of boats and trained crews in case of war.
After the accession to the throne of King Buddha Yodfah or Rama I, the first King of the Chakri Dynasty, and the establishment of Bangkok as the capital, the King set about recapturing the glory of old Ayutthaya and replacing lost treasures. This included the construction of new Royal Barges.
The Royal Barge Procession in April, 1932 for the Sesquicentennial Celebration of the Chakri Dynasty and Bangkok as the capital, was the last one under the absolute monarchy, and the last until May 14, 1957. This procession was a part of the 25th century celebration of the Buddhist Era, which was held in Bangkok. Thirty-nine barges were in the flotilla. The Barge Suphannahongse carried an image of the Lord Buddha; the Barge Anantanagaraj carried the Holy Scriptures; and the Barge Anekchatbhuchong carried a group of senior Buddhist monks.
In 1959 H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej revived the barge procession for the Royal Kathin at Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn). The year 1961 was "Visit the Orient Year" and on November 2, His Majesty the King proceeded by barge procession to present Kathin robes to monks at Wat Arun.
In 1967 a Royal Barge Procession was held once again for the Royal Kathin Ceremonies and His Majesty the King proceeded by the Royal Barge Suphannahongse to Wat Arun. Following a 15 year lapse, a Royal Barge Procession was held in 1982 as a part of the Bicentennial Celebration.
The barges Suphannahongse, Anantanagaraj and Anekchatbhuchong are each manned by fifty oarsmen, two helmsmen, two officers and one flagman. The silver and gold paddles are raised high in unison at the end of each stroke, regulated by a rhythm keeper who taps the butt of his silver spear on the deck in time with the chanting of boat songs. In 1982, 2,100 navy men manned the 51 barges in the procession.
In 1987 a barge procession was a part of the celebration for the 60th (5th cycle) birthday of His Majesty the King.
As a part of the jubilant celebration for the 50th anniversary of his Majesty's reign in 1996, the procession consisted of 53 old Royal Barges and the newly constructed Royal Barge Narai Song Suban, King Rama IX, the name given the new barge by H.M. the King.
H.M. the King presided over the ceremony of laying the keel of the new barge at the Navy Dockyard on September 5, 1994 the first new barge to be built during the present reign.
The Narai Song Suban, King Rama IX has a figurehead of the god Narai on his celestial transport, a Garuda. During the 3rd reign a barge was built with a Garuda figurehead, because in mythology the Garuda was a vehicle of the god.
This new barge is of the same rank as the Royal Barges Anantanagaraj and Anekchatbhuchong. The barge is 44.30 metres long, 3.20 metres at the beam and 1.10 metres deep with a draught of .40 metres. It has a displacement of 20 tons and carry 50 oarsmen. The Royal Thai Navy did not request any budgetary assistance from the Thai Government, and raised the necessary funds from its own special projects.
Celebrations for the 50th anniversary of the reign of the beloved People's King, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great — the longest reigning of any Thai King in history, marked a joyous and most auspicious occasion in Thai history. The occasion was made all the more majestic with the magnificent Royal Barges taking to the waters of the celebrated River of Kings once more.
Introducing
THE PRINCIPAL ROYAL BARGES
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NARAI SONG SUBAN
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The Narai Song Suban Rama IX Royal Barge with Garuda figurehead is the first Royal Barge to be built during the present reign of the Chakri Dynasty, but the second Royal Barge to carry this name. The Narai Song Suban Royal Barge was built and presented to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej during the grand celebrations marking the Fiftieth Anniversary (Golden Jubilee) of His Majesty’s Accession to the Throne in 1996.
The bow of the Narai Song Suban is decorated with a figure of Vishnu mounted on Garuda. One of the gods in the Hindu trinity — Brahma, Siva and Vishnu, Vishnu is known as Phra Narai in Thai.
Brahma (Phra Phrom) is the Creator, Siva (Isuan) is God of Destruction and Rebirth, and Vishnu (Phra Narai), the Preserver and Protector.
According to ancient folk belief, Vishnu manifests himself on earth in a variety of incarnations, or avatars. Rama is one of the earthly incarnations of Vishnu (Narai).
One of the many roles assumed by Siamese kings through the centuries is that of ‘Devaraja’ — the ‘Divine King’. This ancient tradition continues to this very day. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej is King Rama IX. Garuda — the mythical bird-man is Vishnu’s vehicle.
THE SUBHANAHONGSA
The name 'Subanahongsa' or 'Golden Hamsa', a swan — like mythical steed of Brahma, forst appeared in chronicals of the Ayutthaya period. King Rama I commanded the Royal Barge Sri Subanahongsa to be built soon after his accession to the throne in 1782. The predecessor of the Subanahongsa was 36 metres in length, 2.88 metres at the beam and drew a draught of 67 centimetres. She was in constant use as the Principal Royal Barge until she became too old to be repaired. King Rama VI then commanded the building of her successor, the present Subanahongsa which was launched on November 13, 1911
The Subanahongsa is 46.15 metres in length, 3.17 metres at the beam with the depth of her her hull at 94 cms. Her full complement consists of 50 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers fore and aft, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, I chanter and 7 Royal Insignia bearers. In state processions, she carries either a spired throne or a roofed pavillion surrounded by court officials.
The Subanahongsa is made out of a single trunk of teakwood. It is said that the master craftsman threw away all his tools after her completion and vowed never to work again. Whether this is true or not is immaterial for she is the most majestic of all Royal Barges. Her hamsa figurehead is raised in flight with protruding eyes, flared nostrils, fangs showing through her grimacing mouth. She holds a crystalline ball and tassle in her mouth, wears a garland and pendant around her neck. Her feathers, represented by gilded and mirrored Thai ornaments, seemingly flow in the wind all along the length of her body to her flame-like tail. She is presented in full flight aided by the stylized motion of the oarsmen. Their gilded paddles flash in sunlight suggesting the sedate movement of her wings.
THE ANANTANAGARAJ
Second in rank to the Subanahongsa is the Royal Barge Anantanagaraj or 'Multiple Headed Naga', the mythical snake-like creature, symbol of water. The Anantanagaraj also has a predecessor which was built during the reign of King Rama IV. She was launched on April 15, 1914 in the reign of King Rama VI. She is 44.85 metres long, 2.58 metres at the beam and 87 centimetres deep. Her crew consists of 54 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, 1 chanter and 7 Royal Insignia bearers.
The Anantanagaraj is a wonderful example of human imagination. The figurehead is in the form of a seven headed serpent: an intricate sculpture enhanced with gold and coloured reflectors. Wonderment continues all along her body which is covered with multitude of small serpents densely woven into floral vines. She wears a garland and pendant around her neck, but a cannon port in her bow indicates her origin as a war barge.
THE ANEKAJATIBHUJONGA
Oldest of the Principal Royal Barges is the Anekajatibhujonga. She was built upon the command of King Rama V. Her dimensions are 45.67 metres in length, 2.91 metres at the beam and 91 centimetres deep. Her crew consists of 61 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, 1 chanter and 7 Royal Insignia bearers.
In state procession along the waterways, the Anekajatibhujonga stands out as being majestically plain. She bears no pictorial figurehead, but has a simple yet graceful beam-like prow. Upon close inspection, it becomes apparent that this is an illusion. She is actually covered all over with a most intricate pattern of innumberable naga figures. Thus in contrast to the Subanahongsa which is best seen from a distance, the closer one approaches the Anekajatibhujonga, the more apparent her intricate detail becomes. This is the work of delication by craftsmen who took great care not only for the general appearance, but also for absolute detail.
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THE ESCORT BARGES
In places of honour leading the Principal Royal Barges are pairs of ancient escort barges. These have a long history dating from the First Reign, undergoing periodic restorations until the present. They carry signalling drums and ceremonial music instruments. Apart from ceremonial duties, they also go to the immediate aid of the Royal Barges in case of difficulty.
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THE EKACHAI BARGES
The Ekachai Hernhow is 29 metres long and 1.8 metres at the beam. Her twin the Ekachai Laothong is 27 metres long and 2 metres at the beam. Each has a complement of 38 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer and 1 signalman.
The Ekachai barges display tapering column figureheads. They represent the horns of yet another mythical animal, the hera, the horned dragon. The heads and bodies of the hera are actually painted on the prow using the gilded lacquer technique in which gold leaf is applied onto a blcak lacquer background. The heras are depicted as fierce animals with open mouths breathing fire. Their fangs protude and their long tongues support crystalline orbs.
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THE KRUT BARGES
The Krut or Garuda, steed of Vishnu, is the figurehead of this class of barge. The Krut Tret Trichak is 26.5 metres long and 1.8 metres at the beam. The Krut Hern Rahet is of the same length and 2 metres at the beam. Each carries 34 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.
The garudas are depicted in full flight with protuding eyes and bared fangs. Their arms and legs spread out with feathers fluttering in the wind. They hold a naga in each hand and foot. The body of the garuda straddles the cannon port in the bow. The hulls of the barges are decorated with gilded lacquer using traditional floral motif.
Four escort barges have monkeys figure as their figureheads. They represent the simian warriors from the Ramakian, the Thai literary epic based on the Ramayana. These characters serve Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, hence their appearance in the Royal Service of Kings.
The Pali Rang Thaveep and the Sukhreep Krong Muang have crowned figureheads. The former is 26.75 metres long, 2 metres at the beam, and the latter is 28 metres long, 1.55 metres at the beam. Each has a crew of 34 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.
The Krabi Ran Ron Rap and the Krabi Prab Muang Marn have the figureheads of Hanuman and Nilaphat. Both of these barges are 27 metres long and 2 metres at the beam. The crew of each barge consists of 36 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.
The figureheads are presented fully alert and at attention, their gilded robes flowing in the wind. The hulls are painted with gilded lacquer in a floral motif.
A pair of escort barges have Asura or ogre guardian figures as their figureheads. They represent half-bird, half-ogre mythical beings. The Asura Vayapak is 28 metres long and 2.1 metres at the beam. The Asura Paksi is a little longer at 29 metres. Each has a complement of 40 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.
These figureheads stand out from the others because of their composite appearance top half is fierce and exudes strength, yet the birdlike bottom half appears quite delicate in design. They too straddle cannon ports, and preside over floral hulls.
Last of the ancient royal barges are a pair of Sua or tiger barges. Their bows are painted with fierce looking tiger heads, the hulls are painted with tiger stripes. The Sua Kamron Sindh is 20.75 metres long , 1.5 metres at the beam. The Sua Thayan Chon is 20.5 metres long and 1.5 metres at the beam. Each carries a crew of 26 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer and 1 signalman. These barges are different from the other escort barges in that they display their cannons prominently pointing out over the bows.
Described above are the Royal Barges which from the main body of state processions. A number of smaller barges of less importance surround this main body acting as outer escorts and attendants. They are collectively known as rua dang and rua saeng. Generally they are plain long boats with slightly raised stem and stern pieces. The number of oarsmen in each barge varies between 20 to 30, but all barges have 2 steersmen and 1 commanding officer.
A few attendant barges perform special duties in the procession. One pair of rua dang are specially decorated by an overall covering of gold leaf. They are stationed in the van. One known as Taeng Mo carries the commander-in-chief of the state procession. Another called E-luang carries his second in command. Some which carry court constables and officials are known as rua tamruad or police barges. Lastly, a pair known as Thong Kwan Fa and Thong Ba Bin, identified by decorative golden stems and carrying high ranking government officials, close the procession.
Deep-rooted traditions are preserved as much as practically possible in modern Royal Barge Processions. The crews are officers and men of the Royal Thai Navy, changing their roles from seamen of the technological era to warriors of old. Training to handle long boats, propelling them with brute strength, and doing so stylistically, in keeping with the ceremonial nature of the occasion, all demand a high level of organization, discipline and dedication. Most important is the fact that however spectacular the Royal Barge Procession may be, it is never organized purely as a spectacle.
Each and every procession is mounted for a specific purpose of conveying the King or a highly venerated Buddha statue. The participants therefore carry out full state duties and responsibilities.
Preserved are the colourful traditional costumes of the crews. Those of the Principal Royal Barges are armed with swords. Modern elements may be seen in some details such as the royal decorations and side arms of the officers, communication and public address equipment, and modern weaponry for security. Thus this aspect of the Thai traditional remains very much a part of our culture in the modern world.
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